I was shock when I saw this collection from the CSM graduate, Ryohei Kawanishi. Before reading his portfolio and talking to him I just felt this collection is too much. When you understand all those things behind the inspiration you will just love the story. I would say it's nothing about wearable in this collection but this is what Ryohei would like to do. Making conceptual pieces is always a difficult job but he did really well. the collection is full of attraction and exaggeration but when you look at the details you will know Ryohei got a great knitting skills. I really look forward to what Ryohei will play with the idea of cultural fashion and how he develop his career.
Fashion world is getting boring and boring. Because the term of fashion became just only productional rather than cultural. Fashion is not cultural anymore at the moment. It is obvious when you walk around street, you can see many shops such as Top shop, H&M, UNIQLO and etc.. and these "Fashion" is more powerful than term of cultural "fashion". It can be said, cultural fashion has been beaten by globalization and mass production.
How do you describe your style?
Criticism of social and global issues by cultures such as a mirror of society.
What is your opinion of being a successful fashion designer?
I do not want to be a fashion designer. Because most of fashion designers are doing just productional commitment. It is boring for me. So I want to be something new. So I am not sure it is called a fashion designer or not. Furthermore I am not sure what is "success" in this world. It does not mean making a lot of money with products or showing my works in magazines which fashion designer usually does.
Who is your favourite designer? Does he/she inspire you when you do your own designs?
One of my favorite designer is Olivier Theyskens. I interpret his creation as a faithful western history of clothing and development. His interpretation of fashion and aesthetic is greatly beautiful. His attitude is inspirational for me but not style or his "taste".
And the other my favorite designer is Miguel Adrover. If I look at his collection, especially 2001 "MEETEAST" collection to 2004 "THE AMERICANS" as ethnical and political commitments were interesting. He did several these type of commitment through the term of "fashion". His way of representation is inspirational.
My works are based on context of fine art works such as Santiago Sierra, Flancis Alys, Doris Salcedo, Martin Creed, Joseph Beuys and Marcel Duchamp.
I was looking at how they commit to the social issues and show attitude in their works.
Can you tell me more about the collection? Which is the iconic piece in the collection and which one is your favourite?
My collection is based on Israel and Palestine conflict.
The first look and the second look from my collection show my research about style of orthodox-Jewish people and my interpretation of their historical aspect in the western society.
The third and forth look show power of Israel Army by the size and equipments.
The fifth and sixth look show situation in Palestine by the materials.
The seventh outfit shows my personal interpretation of Israel and Palestine conflict.
Also each garment represents relation between Israel and Palestine with metaphorical use of materials.
Therefore my collection is a story by the seven outfits.
There are many new and up-coming designers in the industry. Is there anyone that you really admire?
What is your next plan now? Are you building your own label?
I am going to MA in Central Saint Martins and develop the cultural fashion.
To know more about Ryohei, please visit his website